2022: Year of Pleasure ~Antarctica 3 ‘Mutiny'

Landing Day

Today is landing day, and the crew takes necessary precautions. The seamen board the zodiac, an inflatable motorized boat, to ensure there are no broken ice caps, rough waves, or aggressive elephant seals. We are on a ship designed for 150 passengers, but there are only 95 guests on board. International law permits 100 people from a ship on the continent at any one time. With plenty of time on land, we were able to explore and interact with the island's creatures. Finally, Sam, our reliable program leader, makes an announcement. 

Well. Hello, Hello, this is Sam, your team leader. Calling ‘Blue’ team down to basecamp calling ‘Blue’ team down to basecamp. 

We are split into blue and red teams, and we belong to the blue team. Before leaving the ship, we retrieve our boots from the locker labeled with our cabin number and bring our parkas to the long tables. The crew vacuums our clothing, checking for any seedlings or foreign particles to safeguard Antarctica's natural habitat. 

Perching at the edge of the zodiac, we are all dressed in parkas and waterproof pants, except for one man from China who is wearing a blue blazer and jeans decorated with holes. He wore the same outfit in the dining area the other day, looking as if he came directly from the office to the ship. He shivers and his hands are pink. Was he not informed, and why didn't he prepare before coming? I feel cold on his behalf as the water splashes us and his jeans get wet.

In South Georgia, we are advised to keep a distance of 3 meters from the locals. As we land, everyone is busy taking photos, and I crouch down near the seals lying on their bellies, gazing at me with their large, glossy eyes. They appear peaceful and content against the backdrop of green hillsides and blue skies. I imagine how wonderful it would be to live like a seal, basking in the sun on my belly. Walking west, I carefully avoid stepping on the greenery, heading inland and passing hills where seals are camouflaged until they reveal themselves one by one. Further ahead, a stunning display of birds comes into view. The king penguin colonies, estimated at over 300,000, stand straight and tall in rows like at a rock concert. They crowd and huddle like New Yorkers waiting for the ball to drop in Times Square. Upon closer inspection, they resemble butlers and nuns with elegant orange-yellow beaks and earmuffs. I am captivated, my eyes fixed on the sleek birds. 

The chicks repeatedly make a "geek, geek, geek" sound to signal to their parents that they want more regurgitated food. Each parent can identify their chick's unique call for feeding. Parents also keep their chicks warm by covering them with their brood patch, while the male parents balance eggs on their feet, keeping them warm by brooding. The males endure this for about 65 days, facing freezing temperatures, harsh winds, and blinding storms. I stand observing the scene as the brown furry creatures shed tiny feathers that drift onto my boots. 

Allen and I explore the island and find a river where fur seals bathe, which lacquers their skin to shimmer as black oil. Then further up one mature gray seal lays on her belly caressing her pup. As we get nearer the male seal jumps out of the water snarling at us to stand back. But they are everywhere, I could almost touch them as I am drawn to them through molecular energy but I force myself to step back when my husband alerts me, 

Watch out!

I turn as a line of king penguins march towards me. They halt a few feet away and wait for me to make a  move? Their heads tilt side to side staring at me. I step aside and they waddle like soldiers one behind the other. I count 19 of them. As they continue to march forward, I gaze at them until they disappear when someone cracks my gaze when someone yells .

Everyone move out of the way! 

Beyond the coast near the hills, an elephant seal weighing around 8,000 lbs sounds his horn and snorts before rushing toward the sea. The group of gray seals and penguins scatter to make way for this majestic creature, second in size only to the whale. The albatross spreads its wings, circling above. With its massive blubber jiggling, the seal quickly reaches the water with a few belly hops, astonishing onlookers with its speed despite its size. 

Meanwhile, at the coast, the female elephant seal crouches, trying to make herself appear smaller. We all feel apprehensive for her, as she weighs around 3,000 lbs while lying still. However, he stops right in front of her to rest by the water. I suspect he enjoys intimidating the others, reminding them who reigns supreme. Reminding us he is the king of this island! The cruise guests and the inhabitants hold their breath before resuming their activities. After being on land for 4 hours, Sam announces the final call to return on the zodiac. So soon? What an incredible day.

I remember my first encounter with a SilverBack Gorilla in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. We observed the Kenso Silverback gorilla family beneath a canopy of trees. The father lay on his back after eating, while the children played, swung, and dangled from vines and branches. Meanwhile, the mother nursed her baby. When our guide announced, ‘10 more minutes,’ I realized how quickly time passes as we watch the rhythm of nature. 

 We make our way to pick up our life jackets but we can’t. A baby seal is lying on top of them with his face looking right at us. We don’t mind and say, awwwww, in unison. His glossy black eyes blinks good day and rests his head on the pile of jackets. We can’t get enough and stand bewildered. So close. I could almost feel its smooth skin. Then Sam breaks my transcendentia by shooing him off and it snails away. 

Cruise Drama

We make it back to the ship and I walk up the stairs. It is part of my fitness ritual to keep in shape for travel. I go to the gym, lift weights. And I avoid any activity lest I injure myself. Last year when I strained my shoulder pushing my moped up the hill because the tank went dry. I sold it. All in the name of travel. 

Allen is in the cabin. His parka, rain pants hanging on the clothing line. I remove my gear, placing them in hangers and hook them over the doors to dry. There is a knock on the door. I open it to find Gabriel, the Uruguayan, our neighbor. He looks worried. I shift my feet. He enters the room and leans forward. 

Do you mind if we talk?

Sure. we say.

He tiptoes in and plants himself on a chair. And the room feels heavy. He says,

I am not happy with the itinerary changes. Are you?

Allen and I look at each other and shake our heads. We say,

Changes, what changed? 

Gabriel was still in our cabin. Dressed for a safari, tan pants, tan button down shirt and hiking boots with laces falling on the carpet. He was becoming an octopus with his belly round. His fingers tilt his glasses above his nose, slicking back the falling threads of thinning hair. He begins,

We were supposed to go to (such and such) island but the captain is skipping it, changing course. The Chinese, the English and I are going to address the issue with Sam (the crew leader). Will you join us?

I guess Allen and I represent the Americas? Allens pupils pierced through mine. His eyelids and lips tight pointing his chin at me to say, 

This man has lost his mind! 

I read his thoughts, while my eyes grow big and think.

We are not about to join a mutiny! 

Groups were forming, a weird social experiment ensuing in just a week. Meanwhile he crosses his tentacles unraveling crowding out our cabin. This was not the type of group I wanted to be a part of. I am a nonconformist and can’t wait for him to leave. Him and his coup d'etat plans! How dare he stamp into my joy. It's my’ Year of Pleasure.’ Surely, the captain knows best. What did Gabriel know about navigating a ship? I knew nothing about running a ship. I feel taken care of, certain that the captain was avoiding landings in order to keep his ship, crew and passengers safe. 

Although I liked Gabriel at first, now I am beginning to resent him. We hit it off nicely, being cabin neighbors and from Uruguay, the place where we ferried a few days earlier before our cruise. But I was not going to let him ruin my trip by conspiring against the captain! But I can’t say all that, I am the nice person.

‘Ok we’ll think about it.’

Allen and I submit giving him our soft yes because ultimately we are people, people. Encouraged Gabriel recoils his tentacles leaving dark traces on the carpet, and disappears into the hallway.